Pura Lingsar,
is sacred not only to Lombok's Hindu community, but also for local
Moslem and Wektu Telu followers. Built around 1714, Pura Lingsar was
originally based on the prevailing animist beliefs of the time, and some
of the original animist statues remain today. This temple has two holy
shrines and is the only place on Lombok where all the religions –
Hindus, Buddhists, Christians and orthodox Moslems - come together to
pray for prosperity, fertility, rain, health and general success. The
temple is traditionally associated with fertility, irrigation and rice.
Perang Topat, is an annual festival held at Lingsar and features a
ritualised war with rice cakes, which also serve as an offering to the
Gods.
Lingsar
has spring-fed pools within the temple grounds and is home to large
freshwater eels. Visitors are welcome to accompany a temple priest who
will feed them hard-boiled eggs, purchased at nearby stands. Open
during the day. Admission and eel feeding by donation.
Pura Narmada
(or Narmada Temple), around 10 km east of Cakranegara in Narmada, was
created circa 1805 as a replica of Gunung Rinjani and Segara Anak, the
lake within Rinjani's crater.The gardens at Narmada are beautifully
maintained and surround the pools and lake. Check for performances of
Gandrung, Gendang Belek and other traditional dances on special
occasions. Some of the other pools at Narmada are available for swimming
(modest attire, please) and are popular with local people.
Pura Suranadi,
a complex of three temples located a few kilometres north of Narmada
in Suranadi, is the oldest and holiest of the Balinese temples in
Lombok, founded by the 16th-century Javanese priest, Danghyang
Nirartha. Underground streams bubble up into restored baths, used for
ritual bathing. Locally, Suranadi is regarded as the place to obtain
the proper holy water for Hindu cremations. Huge sacred eels live in
the pools and streams here, and can sometimes be lured out with an
offering of boiled eggs (purchased at a nearby stall). To see a sacred
eel is considered very lucky! The eels are considered holy and it is
taboo to eat them or to contaminate their water.
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EAST LOMBOK
Masbagik,
close to Pringgasela, is a small pottery village. Wander the streets
and see the pottery being made in the small yards behind the simple
homes here and purchase the wares for amazingly cheap prices.
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Pringgasela
in central Lombok is easilyreached from the main road headingeastacross
the island. A turnoff at Lenek leads to the small village which is
steeped in tradition and is a major centre for weaving ikat. Visit the
small houses and shops here to purchase traditionally woven, colourful
fabrics.
Tetebatu,
on the southern slopes of Gunung Rinjani, is a cool mountain retreat
with beautiful rice terraces, forests and bright green fields of crops
and tobacco on the surrounding
slopes.
It's wet and misty during rainy season, cool and lush during the dry,
and is a lovely place for walking or a day trip with lunch at one of
the nearby restaurants or lesehan.
Jeruk Manis
is a lovely waterfall to the north of Tetebatu, reached in about an
hour's trekking through a monkey-filled forest. It's best to take a
local guide with you.
Benang Stokel
is located in the village of Aik Berik in Central Lombok, about 27 km
east of Mataram and less than one hour's drive from the capital. The
area boasts two stunning and separate waterfalls – Benang Stokel and
Benang Kelambu – each within trekking distance of each other.
Benang Stokel is the first of the
waterfalls and is easily accessed by a short walk from the paved parking
area at the start of this national reserve. There is a small entrance
fee payable, which helps maintain the park area and the limited camping
facilities nearby. There are also small stalls selling snacks and
drinks, and friendly young boys who work as unofficial guides and will
carry your bags or picnic baskets.
Benang Stokel features two
waterfalls falling more than 30 metres down a steep cliff face covered
with ferns and jungle vegetation. The waterfall to the left is the
higher of the two and is more powerful. The fall on the right side
splashes into a small rocky pool at the bottom. Local people have come
to these waterfalls for centuries to refresh themselves in the cool and
serene atmosphere and to stand under the pounding waters, which are
believed to have healing properties.
Benang Stokel is now opening up as
an alternative trekking route for people wishing to climb Lombok's
famous volcano, Mt Rinjani. Trekking through dense forest, the climb up
to the crater rim takes between 6 and 8 hours and offers lots of
variety, with the famed Tiara Dewi Anjani waterfall as one of its
highlights, as well as the possibility of seeing herds of deer. The area
is also home to the rare black Ebony Leaf monkey, orchids, butterflies,
vanilla orchids, cocoa and coffee trees. This route has been used for
centuries by hunters and local people, and is perfect for trekkers
looking for a completely different angle of approach to climbing
Rinjani.
After
relaxing on one of the berugaks and a cool splash in the water, it is
relatively easy to make the trek to the next set of waterfalls, around
30 to 45 minutes away. A small track leads up the incline through the
jungle, twisting through the verdant rainforest of the surrounding
hills. Although parts of the trek can be arduous, the track is safe and
can be navigated by most people. The view of
Benang Kelambu at the end is worth every minute of the effort!
Kelambu means “net”
in the local Sasak language and refers to the waterfalls, which spread
out across the hillside like drapes or nets. There are around five
different waterfalls, each falling like veils through the lush ferns and
jungle vines that cover the 40 metre high hillside. At the base of
these falls, the water splashes on rocks and runs in pretty streams down
the hill to the river below. It is an idyllic place to relax, climbing
the rocks and sitting under the falls to cool off, letting the water
splash gently over you and wash away the stress. Bring a picnic lunch to
enjoy in the shade and spend a few hours drinking in the serene beauty
of this lovely spot.
Both waterfalls can get a bit
crowded on Sundays and public holidays, as they are popular picnic
destinations for local families, but during the week the area is a
peaceful and enchanting place to visit.
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Sukarara
is 5 km to the west of Praya, heading south towards Kuta. This is a
weaving village where quality ikat and traditional cloth is displayed
and sold. Weavers work outside many of the shops, using antiquated
“back strap looms” to painstakingly produce works of art. Some of the
larger pieces can take several months to weave, and collectors from
around the world visit this village to purchase the blankets, sarongs
and cloth produced here.
Rembitan and
Sade 2,
on the main road before Kuta, are two traditional Sasak villages
sitting between the roadside and the rice fields. There are
authentic lumbung (traditional houses) here and the villages are laid out in old-style compounds.
Kuta,
on the south coast, is famous for its beaches and great surfing. There
is a good variety of accommodation and restaurants in the area,
including the architecturally spectacular and luxurious Novotel Coralia
Resort located on one of the most picturesque beaches in the area. Kuta
is popular with surfers and holiday-makers seeking sun and sea.
Located about 45 km (28 miles) south of Cakranegara, or one and a half
hour's drive from Senggigi, Kuta has an expansively beautiful white
sand beach and is a good base for exploring the stunningly beautiful
southern coastline.
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THE MAGICAL SOUTHWEST GILIS
Floating in the sparkling blue
waters just off the southwest coast are thirteen small islands called
the Southwest Gilis. Some argue there are more than thirteen and some
say slightly less; as there are a number of coral atolls and
islands-still-in-the-making, but thirteen are large enough to qualify as
islands. Unlike the famous Gili islands in the northwest of Lombok,
the Southwest Gilis are largely uninhabited and have yet to be
discovered by most travellers, thus they are often called “The Secret
Islands”.
Last week we spent several days
exploring these delightful coral islands, staying at Secret Island
Resort on the island of Gili Gede. Gili Gede (the name means “Big
Island” in local Bahasa Sasak) is
aptly named: it is a huge island located just offshore from Tembowong,
around five minutes drive south of the Sundancer Resort in Sekotong. It
only takes a few minutes to reach the island by boat, and transfers
and accommodation can be arranged by Secret Island Resort.
The
Resort itself is spread over a small hill looking back toward the
mainland and, on the other side, across to the islands sprinkled in the
water further south. Rooms are basic but comfortable, and prices for
cottages and the family villa are very reasonable. Secret Island is the
dream come true for owners, Peter and Titin, who run the Resort and
provide information and hospitality to visitors to the Southwest
Gilis. Titien is an amazing cook, turning out delicious meals for
guests; her fresh fish with Balinese sauce prompted
The Lonely Planet to describe the seafood here as “Dynamite!”
Meanwhile, Peter is most happy
dispensing information and ferrying visitors around in his pride and
joy: a 9m purpose-built fishing and diving boat named “Scorpio”. He
regularly arranges transfers onboard Scorpio between Bali and Lombok,
or between Senggigi and the Southwest Gilis, as well as escorting tours
to the best snorkelling and fishing areas in the southwest. And so it
was that we found ourselves in the company of two lucky tourists, one
French and one Canadian, being taken on a very special island hopping
and snorkelling tour of some of Peter’s favourite Southwest Gilis.
The entire area is a feast for the
eyes, with myriad islands surrounded by swaying coconut palms, white
sand beaches, coral reefs and clear turquoise waters. Very few are
inhabited, with only Gili Gede and Gili Nanggu (near Taun) having
accommodation for travellers at present. Small villages of friendly
fishing communities are the norm and, most of the time, you will have
the entire beach or even the island, to yourself!
But it is the snorkelling and
diving opportunities that make this area so special and ripe for
tourism development. The coral is in pristine condition, with numerous
reefs located just off shore at most islands, and filled with colourful
hard and soft coral species. Countless schools of tropical fish, rays
and turtles swim in the unpolluted waters, where visibility often
extends to 20 metres or more in good weather.
For the most part, the waters are
fairly calm, being protected by the contours of the mainland and with
currents broken by the many islands in close proximity, making the area
ideal for swimming, snorkelling, diving and island hopping. At
present, Dive Zone is the only dive company that operates in the area,
with professional dive instruction and dive trips available from their
office at Sundancer Resort in Sekotong. We met a boat load of happy
tourists on Gili Ringgit, out for the day with Dive Zone, who described
the diving as some of the best they’ve ever experienced. Most couldn’t
stop gushing about the huge school of turtles they had just swum with
near Gili Layar!
It’s easy to imagine hotels and resorts on all these
islands, in the future, as well as yachts, fishing boats, windsurfers,
dive boats and the like. But for now, the Southwest Gilis remain the secret islands… stunningly beautiful, pristine and unique; and known to the lucky few…
Banyumulek,
easily reached on the road south to Lembar Harbour, is an important
centre for pottery on Lombok. The small village is packed with shops
selling pottery produced in the area, as well as from the other main
pottery-making villages such as Penujak and Masbagik. Lombok pottery,
with its distinctive terracotta styles, has become famous
internationally and is exported throughout the world. Wander the streets
here and see the pottery being made and fired using traditional
methods. Visit the small workshops out the back of some of the shops to
see the products being decorated and finished by hand. Lombok pottery
makes a great souvenir or gift to carry home, and the shops can arrange
shipping to almost any country for larger items and
export.
Lembar Harbour
is the main port on Lombok, about 20kms south of Mataram. This large
natural harbour is surrounded by hills and picturesque scenery. Public
ferries make the crossing to Padangbai Harbour on Bali approximately
every two hours, 24 hours per day. Boats can also be chartered from
here out to Gili Nanggu and the southwest islands.
Sekotong
is a picturesque area on the southwest coast, where the waters are
turquoise and the sand blindingly white. The large calm bay just
before Taun (Sekotong Barat) is one of the most beautiful on Lombok,
reminiscent of the Caribbean. This is an ideal base for exploring the
southwest coast.
Just off the coast lie three small islands: Gili Nanggu, Gili Sudat and Gili Tangkong.
Gili Nanggu, with its soft white sand and sparkling clear waters, has a
small hotel with basic accommodation and the island is perfect as a
castaway escape, with reasonable snorkelling off the beach. There is a
sign-posted parking area at Sekotong Barat where small boats can be
chartered to explore these lovely islands.
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The Pusuk Pass
is a winding mountain road that starts in Gunungsari and runs through
the mountains inland, to Pemenang in the north. The drive up the pass
provides wonderful views of valleys and gorges, with rivers running
through the tropical forests and small villages dotted amongst the
trees. Families of grey monkeys live in the jungle and come down to the
road to beg for food from passing motorists.
Pantai Sira
is further north past Tanjung, where a small sign-posted road branches
off from the main road and leads to a beautiful white-sand beach with
good snorkelling on the offshore coral reef. There are great views
across to the Gili's and Bali beyond. This is also the site for the
Kosaido Golf Course: a stunning world-class 18-hole golf course with
magnificent views from the manicured greens.
Sendang Gile
waterfalls at Senaru are amongst Lombok's most spectacular, even after
climbing the 200 plus vertical steps down to stand below them. The
water cascades in a steep vertical drop down the hillside into a rocky
stream below. It is popular with both locals and tourists visiting the
Mt Rinjani National Park.
Guides can also be hired from the
restaurant near the car park for the short trek through the jungle to
the lovely Tiu Kelep waterfall nearby, where the water flows into a
pool at the base, good for swimming. Climb the rocks to the hidden
cave behind the falls and follow local legend that says for every pass
behind the waterfall, you take one year off your age. Park admission: Rp
2 000. Guides: around Rp 20 000.
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Senaru
is the usual starting point for climbing Lombok's famous volcano.
Gunung Rinjani. Other options, for a slightly shorter route to the
summit, are Sembalun Lawang and Sembalun Bumbung to the northeast.
Rinjani
soars 3726 m above sea level and is the second highest volcano in
Indonesia, attracting thousands of trekkers and climbers annually. The
huge crater near the top contains a beautiful lake, Danau Segara Anak
(Child of the Sea Lake) and a smaller volcanic cone, Gunung Baru Jari,
which was formed a couple of hundred years ago. There are a number of
caves, small waterfalls and hot springs located around the
volcano.
In 2004 Rinjani won the World
Legacy Award and the volcano is recognised internationally as an
important eco-tourism destination. The Rinjani Trek, funded by the New
Zealand government, has set up a series of programmes for climbing the
volcano and for trekking in the National Park, involving local
communities and guides, and ensuring better management and safety for
trekkers. Enquire at the Park's office for trekking details.
Sembalun Bumbung
is located in a high, cool valley on the northern slopes of Gunung
Rinjani, along with the neighbouring village of Sembalun Lawang. The
area is surrounded by lush fields and valleys, and is famous for
growing many varieties of vegetables in its cooler climate. Both
villages are alternative points to Senaru for climbing Mt Rinjani and
there are a number of places to organise treks in the region, as well
as several small home-stays.
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PRINCESS OF THE WEST COAST
Senggigi,
named after a princess in local legend, is the main tourist centre on
Lombok. The resort area is about 10 km north of Ampenan, and about 20
minutes drive from the island's Selaparang airport. Nowhere near as
large or as busy as its Bali counterparts, Senggigi is a great base for
exploring the rest of the island. The pace is a very laid-back, with
activities centred around the beaches and day trips to places of
interest, which are all within a few hours drive from the town. At
night, dine in the many restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets,
listen to live music at the bars, or dance the night away at the
nightclubs.
Senggigi Beach is the large bay that
forms the centre of Senggigi, with the main road running parallel to
the beach, and large resorts occupying the space between. The beach
provides picturesque views of Bali's Gunung Agung to the west and
stunning sunsets with the volcano silhouetted on the horizon. Senggigi
Reef, off the point near the Senggigi Beach Hotel, has good coral for
snorkelling and, in the right conditions, some decent surf breaks.
Canoes can be hired from the beach on the weekends and during peak
tourism times. Local outrigger boats (perahu) can be chartered from the
beachfront for trips along the coast or out to the Gilis.
The
main road in Senggigi is lined with small shops, tour agencies,
restaurants, bars and nightclubs. There are a couple of supermarkets,
numerous ATM's and moneychangers, a post office and all the normal
tourist facilities. Senggigi is a relaxing and attractive place to
stay, with a good range of luxury hotels and resorts, as well as
mid-range and budget accommodations.
The Pasar Seni (Art Market)
is on the beach between the Santosa and Sheraton resorts. There are
numerous small stalls selling handicrafts and souvenirs from around
Lombok, as well as t-shirts, sarongs and clothing similar to Bali's
markets. On the beach, local sellers ply their wares – watches, pearls
and jewellery, as well as massages and manicures. Small restaurants
line the beachfront and are a nice place to catch the ocean breezes
during the day, or to dine at night watching the lights of the fishing
boats across the ocean.
Batu Layar,
on the hill a couple of kilometres before Senggigi, has an important
ancestral grave (makam) where Muslims come to picnic and to pray for
health and success. Nearby Pura Batu Bolong
(meaning “rock with a hole”), is an interesting Hindu temple facing
Bali across the Lombok Strait. Built on a large rocky outcrop with a
natural hole near the base, it is said that virgins were once
sacrificed to the sea from the seat-like rock at the outermost point.
Colourful Hindu ceremonies are held here every month at the dark and the
full moons, and at Hindu festival times. Admission and loan of a
compulsory temple sash are by donation. This is a great place to watch
the sunset, with fantastic vistas across to Gunung Agung on Bali.
Tourism
development runs north along the coastal road for about 10 km, with
many hotels and restaurants positioned along the beautiful beaches that
line the entire west coast. About 2 km north is Kerandangan Valley,
with a popular beach nearby and some nice hotels slightly out of town
in a pretty valley. Further north, Mangsit has developed as an
accommodation alternative to Senggigi, with boutique style hotels
positioned along the breathtaking bays of this section of coast.
Furthest north is Lendang Luar, with two hotels perched on the long
stretch of pristine beach here.
Mainly deserted white sand beaches,
flanked by coconut groves and untouched by hotel development, continue
all the way north along the main coastal road. Malimbu and Nipah are
two picturesque bays less than half an hour from Senggigi, which are
good for snorkelling and getting away from it all. Teluk Nara and Teluk
Kodek are on a large bay about 25 kms north of Senggigi. All the main
dive operators have boats here, which transfer guests to the Gili
islands, as an alternative to nearby Bangsal Harbour. The harbour
itself is reached at the crossroads in Pemenang and from here it is
easy to catch the public ferries (actually large outrigger boats) out
to the Gilis, or to charter boats for island hopping.
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The three main cities in Lombok –
Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara – have expanded over the years and now
merge together to create what is, for Lombok, an urban sprawl of
shops, administrative centres and residential areas.
A visit to the cities makes an
interesting day trip, exploring the numerous small shops selling
everything imaginable at low prices. There are numerous pearl shops in
Ampenan selling unset pearls and pearl jewellery at cheap prices. These
are genuine pearls from the pearl farms on Lombok and Sumbawa and, if
you bargain the price, are a good deal. Gold shops are also popular in
both Ampenan and Cakra, with 24 kt gold being sold by the gram,
regardless of the design.
For cheap and interesting food
choices, explore the many restaurants, warungs and food stalls in the
cities. Or just wander around the streets to soak up the atmosphere and
discover fascinating insights into Lombok city life!
Ampenan
was the original old port in Lombok during Dutch colonial times and
some of the old architecture is still visible around the town,
particularly toward the beach to the west. This area becomes a market
at night, filled with warungs and kaki lima (food carts) for cheap,
tasty food and local flavour. With its numerous shops, cheap hotels,
dusty roads and plentiful cidomo (horse carts), gold and pearl shops,
and its Arab quarter, Ampenan is a colourful town to explore.
Kebun Roek,
just near the traffic lights in Ampenan on the road from the airport,
is the site of the local markets. Every day traders set up stalls
selling fresh produce from around the island, local snacks and
products, live chickens and fresh fish in the afternoon when the
fishing boats come in. A stroll through the markets is a pungent and
enlightening experience!
Mataram,
about 3 km to the east of Ampenan, is the administrative centre for
Lombok and Sumbawa (NTB Province), with government offices, banks,
mosques, schools and colleges, bookstores, the main post office, and
Mataram University downtown.
In Mataram, the Nusa Tenggara Barat Museum
houses historical and cultural artefacts from Lombok and Sumbawa.
It's an interesting place to visit and occasionally hosts special
exhibits. Displays include exhibits on geology, history and culture.
Address: Jl Panji Tilar. Ph: 632159 for opening times. There is a small
admission fee. Also worth visiting is the cultural centre, Taman
Budaya on Jl Majapahit. Music and dance performances are presented here
regularly. Phone: 622428 for details.
Mataram Mall,
on the main street in Mataram, has an upstairs food court for cheap
local meals. Lombok's only real mall, there are four floors of shops
and stalls selling a vast selection of goods. Particularly good buys are
shoes, jeans, and copy brand bags and belts.
There is a department store,
several electronics stores, and shops selling clothing, CD's and DVD's.
Hero Supermarket, on the ground floor, is useful for some western
goods, food and toiletries. The Chemist next door has imported
toiletries, supplements and medicines. McDonalds and KFC have outlets
on the ground floor.
Cakranegara (usually
abbreviated to “Cakra”) is Lombok's main shopping area. It is also
home to many Chinese and Balinese, who make up over 50 percent of the
city's population. The streets of the city make an interesting tour with
gold shops, sporting goods, clothing stores and very good fabric
stores selling imported silks, laces and cottons, to name a few. Many
of Lombok's weaving and basket making industries are located near
Cakra; turn left at the central traffic lights and look for the market
on the right near the bridge. The baskets in particular are sold in
Bali at many times the local price.
The next large town east of Cakra,
Sweta, has a huge market every day near the Bertais bus terminal, with
all kinds of goods on sale, from foodstuffs to clothing, exotic birds,
handicrafts and more.
Nearby Temples and Places of Interest
Pura Meru
on Jl Selaparang, Cakranegara, was built in 1720 by Balinese Prince
Anak Agung Made Karang and is the largest temple on Lombok. Its three
meru are for the Hindu trinity Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. This is an
important temple for the Balinese here and its annual Pujawali
festival, held over five days during the full moon in September or
October, is the biggest Balinese Hindu event on Lombok. The outer
courtyard hall has large drums used to announce ceremonies and
festivals. In the central courtyard are two buildings with raised
offering platforms. The interior enclosure has 33 shrines as well as
the three multi-tiered meru.
Pura Mayura,
just across the street from Pura Meru, was built in 1744 as the court
temple of the last Balinese kings in Lombok. An open hall or bale
kambang (floating pavilion) stands in a large artificial lake here and
is used as a place for meetings and to relax. Today the palace gardens
are a playground for children. The temple sits behind the sedate water
gardens and is open daily; admission is by donation.
A BRIEF HISTORY
